Today, on my voyage of discovery, and still in the tourist zone, I took a canal tour. The Chao Phraya River (River of Kings) flows through Bangkok and one can wander by speedboat into its tributaries upon whose banks people live. And not only the banks, but indeed in the river itself, houses on stilts in the brown churning waters.
Bangkok is, of course, compartmentalized. I live in a long stay hotel apartment (temporarily) in the heart of the city, in the commercial retail district. From my window, I can see Centre World, Siam Paragon and Siam Center, all massive mega-malls. And I have a full view of the very tony Bangkok Golf Club and up the road is the wonderful Lumpini Park. When real estate agents want to convince me to rent in that zone, they say “good area, full of expats”. Otherwise known somewhat derisively as ‘farang’. In this area, I get by, as most people, including the taxi drivers (car, tuk tuk and motorbikes) know enough English to drive commerce.
But there are areas ‘not for farang’, including it would seem the communities on the banks of the river and canal ways, khlongs. Known as Venice of the East, the khlongs are lined by houses, more so than commercial establishments. And I did not see much by way of boat traffic except for the tourist boats.
Here are a few pictures from this morning. One thing that really struck me is the absence of what I romanticized as Thai architecture. Those that would qualify (to my untutored eye) are ceremonial and religious buildings. But generally the homes have few defining features except for the wonderful spirit houses situated outside.
The highlight of the tour is the Floating Market which amounts to mostly market on the water’s edge and stalls on boats. But like elsewhere in bangkok, a cornucopia of food, mostly unknown. I need a culinary tour guide. Seriously.
The fruits for the most part are recognizable. Guavas in abundance Huge. But I suspect genetic engineering as they are no where as tasty and pungent with flavor as Nina’s.
Here are some pictures of the food stalls. Look for the one of the a bucket of small snakes, eels. I mean.
Who owns/maintains the spirit houses? A family, the community, “priest”. Admittedly, I know little.
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Beautiful article and beautiful pictures Roberta.
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You taking more pictures than a Chinese tourist. We have more in common than a birthdate now.
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Eat de street food girl! Nothing a little bitters and soda can’t fix! (you did walk walk with your bitters, right?) I admire their efforts at presentation though.
I agree with Varia, I would love to see you in the picture… who they calling Farang?
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hey roberta, love the pics – especially the food pics!
go brave and have a sample of everything. that’s what i would do. you not doing it right if you don’t eat the street food – snakes/eels and all! yum yum!
oh and can we get some pics with you in it? it’s hard to imagine you there without seeing what you look like in the environment. i’m afraid you’ll have to be a true true toursist and pose while a perfect stranger captures your image. how unroberta you say? think adventure and indulge us nuh!
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This is what I meant by your “living it up”.. Eudine callks it “an adventure of a lifetime”, which is a better description I think. Like others, I am tempted to get on the plane.
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Jennie’s reading every one of your missiles…sorry missives…lol (just kiddin ya)
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Like Lynette the houses reminded me of Guyana. There are houses on stilts on the Essequibo river. Thank you Roberta for sharing this journey. I am enjoying the ride.
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Roberta, you need to start eating some of the fare. When we arrive you must be our culinary guide. Francis McB.
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That will take some courage with the street food. ou know, i would never buy a doubles at Curepe Junction or in the Croisee. I find that I prefer food less flavoured by the exhaust barbeque flavour. But I like your promise to come. Tell Wanda, I looking out!
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Some of those houses remind me of houses in Guyana along the East Bank. This is such a vicarious kind of journey. I am quite enjoying it I must say. Keep up the good work of lending us your eyes.
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I am seriously considering coming there in January or May. How far is it from Geneva?
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I think 6 hours. Coming right?
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Roberta, these pictures are beautiful and I like the clash? Of architectural styles. I am invoking big sister and saying, don’t eat any street foods, especially in areas not for Farang and don’t fallinto that river water. This is an adventure of a life time. I love the Spirit houses. Last night I was watching a British programme called, Idiot Abroad. He was in Bangkok and visited a park with hundred of carvings of penises in wood and stone, in all colours and szes, he stated, something to do with fertility rites.
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Thank you for that tip. How can I resist? I am there with you on the street food.
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